The
products of shawl-looms of Cashmere have given it a world-wide reputation.
The wool of which these shawls are made is furnished by several
animals, the wild goat of the provinces of Lassa and Ladakh, affording
the best. It is simply the inner coat that is used. The first step
is to carefully separate this from the hair. This is then spun by
the women, a work which engages a proportion of the women of Cashmere.
The skins are next dyed; and in this art, the Cashmerians display
much taste and skill in producing beautiful and brilliant tints.
The weavers are always men or boys, and were generally found from
twenty to fifty crowded in a small room, three or four being engaged
at each loom. The warp is extended in the loom as though the wool
were to be introduced by a shuttle; but instead of a shuttle, several
hundred slim, wooden needles, each wound with a small amount of
thread, are employed. With a sort of Hieroglyphic pattern before
his eye, indicating the color of the thread to be used, the weaver
passes these in rapid succession, according to the color required,
through one or more threads of the warp.
Many of the shawls are woven in separate pieces and then carefully
joined, this being so skillfully done that the seams are scarcely
discernable. The time required for weaving a shawl varies, of course,
with the pattern. and the fineness of the threads used: usually
three or four weavers are engaged upon a single shawl from three
months to two years. There are rarer patterns, of course, that embody
infinitely more labor than this. The price of the more common shawls
varies from 400 to 1600 rupies ($200 to $800).
The City of Cashmere, Chapter 15 of the book, "Remains of Lost
Empires", circa 1875, by P.V.N. Myers, page 409